Continuing with the ‘endeavour’ theme for the month (which we are mostly dedicating to sporting scents, and being more adventurous in your fragrance choices); we thought it would be fun to (special) branch out a bit and incorporate hunting for a new fragrance with our popular ‘Scenting…’ series of articles – where we pick perfumes we think would be perfect for well-known TV, movie or musical characters and artists, and have matched everything from Bridgerton to Stranger Things and the painter Sargent, so far. Well… we thought: why not scent match the detectives, too…?
Why are we matching scents to detectives, you might be wonder – is it just a bit of fun? Well hopefully it’s fun to read, of course, but there’s a serious point behind the frivolity: fragrance is famously an invisible entity that’s tricky to convey in any format to someone who’s not yet smelled it for themselves.
When trying to explain what something smells like, we all have to navigate the emotional maze of cultural and personal associations and scent memories, while attempting to clearly convey the concept without merely relying on a list of fragrance notes – which is as useless as a shopping list is to tasting the finished meal, or the names of paints are to understanding the deeper meaning an artist is hoping to project.
So: we match scents to characters / people and programmes you may be familiar with to give you a nuanced sense of not only what that scent might smell like, but how it will make you feel when you wear it. And isn’t that really what we’re all most concerned about when choosing a new fragrance?
Of course, given our theme for the month, and the topic of detectives, we had to start with none other than…
Endeavour – The Merchant of Venice Maria Callas
Telling the fascinating backstory of Inspector Morse’s complex character, the prequel already shows him as refined, standing apart from the crowd, and placing great importance on culture, art, and especially classical music and opera. With this homage to the Divina of all operatic performers, there’s a nuanced vulnerability amidst strength. Endeavour would bring out the backbone of reassuring woodiness which grounds the softer, amber-warmed rose and sparkling top notes. Encore!
£206 for 100ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com
Miss Marple – 4160 Tuesdays The Lion Cupboard
Jane Marple may be seen by some as a tweed-y, twittery, nosey yet harmless senior citizen, but the mischievous twinkle in those piercing eyes hints at her innate ability to see through lies, right to the heart of the matter. Here, ferns are pressed between pages of a diary, love letters discovered in faded ribbons, a lipstick kiss on a foxed mirror, a silk scarf with the faint tang of a gentleman’s Cologne entwined with a woman’s scent is found at the crime scene. Whodunnit? Oh, she knows.
£50 for15ml eau de parfum 4160tuesdays.com
Hercule Poirot – Floris Special No.127
The always immaculate Belgian detective requires a fragrance that feels understated yet characterful, utterly classic but timeless. Perhaps after living in London a while, and being (we are sure) a regular patron of Jermyn Street (known for its traditional tailoring and gentleman’s grooming); he would elegantly saunter his way to Floris. There’s a refreshing citrus blend of bergamot and orange with petitgrain, a cool heart of lavender and geranium, while patchouli and musk add longevity.
Discover in the Floris Classic Collection Set, £35 for 6 x 2ml samples in our shop
Jessica Fletcher – Map of the Heart Purple Heart v.5
Being dedicated to ‘a teller of tales’, this scent perfectly befits the murder mystery writer Jessica Fletcher, who seems more often embroiled in tangled reality than the tales she imagines. However, we picture her taking a break from discovering bodies at friends’ houses, and instead sitting at her desk pondering the next novel. Ink smudges the typewriter keys, a tin of licorice and bowl of black cherries sit beside a vase of purple roses. Intriguing and optimistic, this scent is a triumph on skin.
Try it in the Map of the Heart Discovery Set, £35 for 7 x 1ml samples in our shop
Sherlock Holmes – Redolescent Hive Mind
In the story ‘His Last Bow: An Epilogue of Sherlock Holmes’ we learn that the world-famous detective has retired and become a beekeeper on the South Downs. Not as unusual a transition as you may think, because, as Holmes’ tome on the subject reveals, it is “the fruit of the pensive nights and laborious days when I watched the little working gangs as I once watched the criminal world of London.” He’d take comfort in this honied meadow scent – as mellow as it is meticulously structured.
£145 for 50ml eau de parfum in our shop
Written by Suzy Nightingale