Internationally purple is the color for symbolizing women, as the shade represents justice and dignity
International Women’s Day is a worldwide celebration which occurs every year March 8th. In our current times, it serves as the nucleus of women’s rights, highlighting such issues as gender equality, reproductive rights, and violence and abuse against women. This year’s theme is #EmbraceEquity – and March also happens to be Women’s History Month.
We have a great deal of history – and have rights and privileges today thanks to the many inspiring, valiant, resolute souls who paved a path for us – at great personal cost. First a mere glimpse into the evolution of equal rights – which began with suffrage. Since then, women have fought for racial, civil, and humanitarian rights all over the globe.
Women of the world unite via People’s world
As it often happens, history may be seen through the filtered eye of the beholder: while researching this global observance, I came upon various citations regarding which event occurred first. Women’s suffrage – the right to vote and participate in one’s own government – began earlier than one might think, and it was likely the initial foray into seeking some measure of equality. In New Jersey, in 1776 – women were accorded voting rights – only to be revoked in 1807, when it was determined that only white men should have that right. Following a tempestuous path, rights were accorded and then rescinded – and it wasn’t until 1990 that the last bastion fell (in Switzerland).
Germaine Cellier collage by former Sr. Contributor Marianne Butler
In the perfumed world, fearless women have broken into a realm which had been previously delegated to men, much as the creation of fine cuisine was.The earliest historical reference we have on record is from 13th C. Assyria:Tapputi-Bellet-ekale (bellet-ekale translates as “assistant of the palace”), a renowned chemist who created fragrant oils and unguents for regents and their entourage. We have the mysterious Russian perfumer, Madame Zed, who in 1924 collaborated with Firmenich to create My Sin for the house of Lanvin; Madame Germaine Cellier‘s volatile genius, and her famous work for Balmain: Élysées 64-83, Jolie Madame, Vent Vert, Miss Balmain. Josephine Catapano of IFF blazed a trail for American perfumery with her 1953 Youth Dew and 1978 Cinnabar for Estée Lauder; it was she who composed other classics such as Norell (1968), Fidji for Guy Laroche (1966); and 1964’s mysterious Zen for Shiseido. Mme. Catapano went on to mentor the legendary Sophia Grojsman, and in 1993 was awarded a Lifetime Achievement Award by the American Society of Perfumers. One cannot ignore the stunning contributions of Mme. Patricia de Nicolaï, or Françoise Caron (both of whom were born into scented society).
Where it concerns natural perfumery, Mandy Aftel immediately springs to mind: her innovation, tutelage, revelatory writings – and her eloquent perfumes. Creative Director and founder Neela Vermeire was the first woman to exult the India of her birth while bridging East Meets West – and elevate it to the level of haute parfumerie. We deeply lament the passing of icons Vero Kern and Mona di Orio: so unique and inspiring, they trod where others hesitated to go, and in the process left us a stunning olfactory legacy.
Vero Kern with Mona Di Orio at Pitti in Florence 2008 or 2009 photo sent to Michelyn courtesy of Ulrich Lang of Anvers New York
Today, the roster of women perfumers, be they indie, niche, or the most highly-regarded noses who compose for well-known brands – is vast. Out of respect for them all, I decline to list them, for fear that I would inevitably fail to recall each and every one – and that would pain me greatly. Some are pedigreed (they possess certificates from prestigious schools, have been mentored by the greats, are employed by houses such as IFF, Robertet, Givaudan, Takasago, etc.); others have studied in person or online; and increasing numbers are essentially autodidacts – those who learned the hard way, through trial-and-error and experimentation. I applaud all their efforts: over many years I have come in contact with talents previously unknown who blew me away with their creativity, originality, and very high quality fragrances. I’d also like to point out that a perfume may only be as good as the brief one is given and is subject, most often – to the desires of the creative director. Many brilliant perfumers become hamstrung by their demands, and end up composing that which is demanded of them, all the while working to create the best version of that brief. Personally, I love it when perfumers have free rein to express themselves without constraint, and we may catch a glimpse into the passions which most move them.
This year on International Women’s Day we honor Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations, and Madame Patricia de Nicolaï of Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur. It wasn’t an easy task – so I chose the first fragrances of each with which I became besotted. I still adore and wear them, many years since my initial introduction. I hope that you will love them as well.
Mandy Aftel “The Queen of Green” courtesy of the perfumer
Mandy Aftel, the Queen of Green: I believe that it was our Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen who coined the phrase – and it couldn’t be more true. Mandy is a true Renaissance woman – author, teacher, artist, chef, gardener, seeker of knowledge – and living proof that natural perfumery needn’t be headshoppy or dull. Her chef’s essences are of superior quality, and I’ve employed them in everything from cocktails to vinaigrettes to mole, to wedding cake and crème brûlée tarts. Delicate and sumptuous absolutes, skin care – meticulous attention to detail, and only the finest materials she can source bring beautiful dividends. She and I met many years ago in NYC when she held a trunk show at Henri Bendel’s on Fifth Avenue, and that is when I purchased a full bottle of her magnificent Cepes and Tuberose, along with multiple minis.
Ida’s Bottle of Cepes and Tuberose
Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose (Mandy Aftel) 2003: It was one of those sanpaku moments, when your eyes roll back in your head due to a surfeit of pleasure. I had never smelt anything similar, and by 2003 or so I was a bit of a perfume veteran. Indolic delight manifested doubly: the intense, hypnotic floralcy of tuberose with its initial camphoraceous lilt, heralded by a succulent bitter orange; then, the subtext of earthy mushrooms with their seminal inflection. I never could resist either sandalwood or rosewood. Both die and spell had been cast. Cepes and Tuberose was (and still is) the marriage of the fleshly and the divine, possessing nothing of the superficial: all depth, intrigue ranging from sex to death, like a Russian novel. Notes: porcini mushrooms, Italian tuberose, bitter orange, sandalwood, rosewood
Neela Vermeire Creative Director of Neela Vermeire Creations and Fragments NVC for International Women’s Day courtesy of Neela
Neela Vermeire and I first met in person at NYC’s Elements Showcase in August 2011; it was one of those rare occasions when you know that you’ve encountered a soulmate. Besides the obvious – Neela’s warmth, intelligence, and enthusiasm – her three introductory fragrances were spectacular and one-of-a-kind (it didn’t hurt any that Bertrand Duchaufour was her nose of choice – or that the venerable Pierre Dinand designed the fluted, elegant columnar flacons which became her trademark). I eventually wound up with each of them, but as a rose devotee, I was drawn to Mohur right away, and cherished my little sample. It was not merely rose: it was an aromatic flying carpet, as far as I was concerned.
Ida’s bottle of Mohur Extrait
Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur Extrait (Bertrand Duchaufour) 2014
“Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess.” ~ Oscar Wilde
If Mohur was thrilling, then Mohur Extrait was bouleversant. Deeper, richer, even more enigmatic resinous rose kissed with leather and almond milk, in a blissful state of repose atop the king of sandalwoods and faithful-yet-friendly oud. The odalique of roses! If perfumes were rated like film, Mohur Extrait would be for adults only; its highly-developed sensual languor is not befitting children. My flacon, well-preserved and protected from light and heat – only improves with age. Notes: cardamom absolute, coriander seed oil, ambrette seed, carrot, black pepper, elemi oil
Turkish rose oil, Moroccan rose absolute, orris, hawthorn, almond milk, violet, orris, leather, sandalwood, patchouli, oudh palao oil from Laos, benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean
Patricia de Nicolaï of Nicolaï Parfumeur-Createur for International Women’s Day courtesy of the perfumer
Madame Patricia de Nicolaï should need no introduction, but introduce her we shall. It is 33 years since Mme. sallied forth to make her indelible mark on French haute parfumerie – no undemanding matter when you directly descended from many generations of the Guerlain lineage. In 1988, she won the International Prize for Young Perfumers (from the French Society of Perfumers) for her remarkable submission, Number One (nowadays, only Number One Intense is available – but I love my bottle from that time). She was the very first woman to receive such recognition, but this was just the beginning. Since then she has created 60+ perfumes; in 2008, she became the President of Versaille’s Osmothèque – the largest international scent archive (founded in 1990 by Jean Kerleo). I first met Mme. de Nicolaï briefly in Milan many years ago, when I made a fool of myself raving over Le Temps d’Une Fête (created in 2007, now-discontinued), which – after Mitsouko – was my Holy Grail green floral chypre. Vanille Tonka, however – was my very first purchase of what was to become many over the years; I ferreted it out especially for this review and was delighted how well it has stood the test of time.
Ida’s bottle of Vanille Tonka
Nicolaï Parfumeur- Createur Vanille Tonka (Patricia de Nicolaï) 1993
“The flowers of your garden blossom in my body.
The joy of life that is everywhere burns like an incense in my heart. “~ excerpt from My Soul Is Alight, Rabindranath Tagore
Vanille Tonka is a perfume which was ahead of its time, which is likely precisely why it has stood the test of time. Bertrand Duchaufour splendid Incense Series for Comme Des Garçons was released in 2002, five years after Mme. de Nicolaï created this fragrance. Vanille Tonka was truly groundbreaking in its subtle intricacy: unlike other incense-inspired scents, it is a superb amalgam of sweet spice (anise, cinnamon, vanilla) which is announced by the lucid tones of lemon, mandarine, and black pepper. Orange blossom and carnation individually smell miles apart, but here they are synchronous bosom companions, skillfully embroidered upon a veil of incense, tonka and a tender breath of tobacco. Vanille Tonka is one of those rare ethereal perfumes which linger for an extraordinary length of time – and so many years later, it has not lost its charm or originality. Notes: lemon, mandarine, black pepper, anise, incense, orange flower, carnation, cinnamon, vanilla, tonka, tobacco
Women of perfumery, we salute you, and thank you for your marvelous contributions, not only on International Women’s Day but every day.
Reviews based upon bottles which I purchased, from my own collection. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Editor’s Note: Each perfumer in Ida’s International Women’s Day article is the “lady boss” of her own brand and has received a ÇaFleureBon Hall of Fame award: 2022 for Neela Vermeire, 2021 for Mandy Aftel and 2019 for Patricia de Nicolaï -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
To celebrate International Women’s Day, we have giveaways from our honorees
Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes is offering a 2 ml .mini of Cepes and Tuberose for one registered reader worldwide this International Women’s Day
Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations is generously offering a 50 ml. bottle of Mohur Extrait for a registered reader in the EU, USA, and UK
Parfums de Nicolaï, a100 ml ml flacon of Vanille Tonka for one registered reader worldwide, with the exception of Latin America and the UK
If you are not sure if you are registered click here (you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible, please leave a comment about each of the women in our International Women’s Day post and why they inspire you, which fragrance you would prefer to win, and where you live. Draw closes 3/12/2022
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