There are SO many myths associated with scent, so here we’re presenting you with some fragrant facts: How can you find your perfect perfume? What’s the best way to take care of it? Where should fragrance be applied, to get the most out of every spritz?
Nobody’s born knowing these things, so we’ve collated answers to many of the most frequently asked questions we’ve had in the ten years since The Perfume Society first launched…
How do I choose the right perfume for me?
- We really would then advise trying fragrances in-store if possible, because there is nothing like experiencing the way a fragrance develops on your skin.
- Initially, try the fragrance on a blotter (also known as a perfume ‘spill’). Allow a few minutes for the alcohol and the top notes to subside, and then smell the blotters. At this stage you may be able to eliminate one or more, if they don’t appeal – but it is really the heart notes and the lingering base notes which you will live with, and which are crucial.
- Remember: blotters are a useful way of eliminating no-hopers and lining up possibilities, but they’re not really enough to base a perfume purchase on. You really need to smell a scent on your skin.
- Do make the most of Find a Fragrance: The Perfume Society’s ‘virtual fragrance consultant’. You can input which perfumes you’re already keen on, and our clever algorithm will make a really accurate personalised selection, suggesting up to six fragrances at a time for you to try, at various price-points.
Why do I love some and loathe others?
- A We are conditioned to have smell preferences, and our response is based partly on our individual genetic make-up (our DNA), and partly on our life experiences. So: that crushed tomato leaf note that reminds you of a beloved grandmother and her greenhouse – or the jasmine that was growing round a door when you were poorly on holiday, and which you can hardly stomach. Technically, we all have an ‘olfactory fingerprint’, which is unique to us: it is our life’s experiences all locked away in our smell memory. In the same way that we each respond differently to different smells, we don’t all like the same pictures, or the same music. (And wouldn’t life be boring, if we did…?)
How many should I try at a time?
- A In a perfect world, one, when you’ve narrowed down your choices – to really get to know the smell as it develops. Ideally, no more than two at a time – one on each wrist. We don’t believe perfume-shopping should be rushed, but we all live busy lives so at a push, you can try one more, on the inside of an elbow; the elbows also happen to be good pulse-points.
- Never try more than three fragrances at any one time, on your body, or you’ll confuse your senses. And because it’s hard to remember what you applied where, we really do suggest jotting down the details of which perfume you applied to which pulse-point. (It’s almost impossible to remember later, even if you think you’ll be able to…)
- Ideally, really live with a fragrance before you part with your cash. That might mean getting a sample, if it’s available in store (or exploring the Perfume Discovery Boxes and Brand Sets. It might mean spraying your skin, in a store. (We like to spray a darker-coloured scarf or pashmina, too, and sniff it later.) When you’ve fallen in love, then go back and make your purchase.
Can I tell how a perfume will smell, from a blotter?
- A Blotters, or spills, are specially-made pieces of blotting paper designed to demonstrate how a fragrance smells. They are a good way to establish if you like a perfume’s initial impression. But if you’re buying perfume, you need to discover how it unfolds on your own skin, as it interacts with your unique body chemistry.
What is the difference between perfume/scent/fragrance?
- A Nothing. They are all words used to describe the wonderful world of smell, and the scented liquids (or balms) we apply to our bodies. Fragrance is in more common usage in the US, and throughout the perfume industry itself. Perfume comes from the Latin ‘per fumum’ which literally means through smoke. It originates from ancient times when people burned woods, resins and flowers as offerings to their gods – and if you’d like to read much more about the fascinating history of fragrance, click here.
What is the difference between Parfum, EDP, EDT, Aftershave and Cologne etc.?
- A These descriptions are used to identify the strength or concentration of oil in a fragrance. T he concentrations can vary from fragrance to fragrance but here is an average guide. In general, the higher the percentage, the higher the price – but be aware that different concentrations (Perfume, or Eau de Toilette, etc.) may also have different notes in them, and not simply be weaker or stronger. So when you like a fragrance, we suggest you explore its different concentrations.
- Extract/solid perfume – 20-30%
- Perfume – 15-25 %
- Eau de Parfum (EDP) – 8-15%
- Eau de Toilette (EDT) – 4-8%
- Cologne (EDC) – 2-4%
- After Shave – 2-4%
- Soap – 2-4%
- Body cream/lotion – 3-4%
- Perfumed candle – 10%
Can I wear a men’s fragrance as a ‘perfume’? Or a ‘female’ fragrance, if I’m male?
- Absolutely! Only in the last 150 years have distinctions been made between male and female fragrances. Now, most niche houses (and increasing numbers of more mainstream brands) are thankfully saying scent is for anyone who wants to wear it. You may see fragrances described as ‘genderfull’ or ‘gender free’. It comes down to personal choice. We know many men who wear Jicky and Angel, and plenty of women who adore Eau Sauvage or Habit Rouge. There really aren’t any ‘rights’ and ‘wrongs’. Wear whatever you want!
What is a fragrance wardrobe – and do I need one?
- As Coco Chanel said, ‘Perfume is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion.’ So: some people have lots of shoes and bags and change according to their mood. A fragrance wardrobe provides the same opportunity for you to choose, according to your mood or the occasion. What we aim to do through The Perfume Society is make sure that those choices are fragrances you truly love and which suit you – rather than something which languishes, unworn, on a shelf. (Just as we’ve all bought clothes which we’ve worn once, and realised didn’t suit us. That’s what we’re trying to help you avoid.)
If I start to build a fragrance wardrobe, how many should I have…?
- As many as you like. (How many pairs of shoes do you own…? Or jackets…? And would you wear sequins to work, or a fitted suit to watch a movie on a weekend…?) We don’t want to see fragrances languishing unworn on a dressing table, but if you wear them rather than look at them, then six, ten, maybe even more… You might want to have different fragrances for spring/summer and autumn/winter. (This is very common.) Or for day and evening: the evening fragrances might be stronger concentrations. Something subtle, perhaps, to wear to the office. Something outdoorsy, for gardening. Something snuggly, for cosying up to a fire, watching a boxed set. If perfume brings you joy, indulge yourself – and let others indulge you (preferably in a guided way…)
What are niche perfumes?
- ‘Niche’ is the name given to perfumes which are often interesting, unusual, special, difficult to find – and sometimes pricey, too. There has been a huge rise in ‘niche’ perfumery, in the past few years, with many fascinating new names appearing on the fragrance scene. They might work with a similar ‘palette’ of fragrance ingredients, but often the niche perfumers try daring combinations, or are inspired by very personal events and experiences. All fragrances tell a story, and exploring ‘niche’ perfumes can be a great way to learn about the olfactory universe. In reality, the boundaries between niche and mainstream are so blurred the days, but generally we still call independent, smaller houses ‘niche’, or those that place artistic, unique compositions ahead of what’s fashionable.
Do seasonal scents exist? Are some better for winter than summer?
- In hot weather, you may find your fragrance seems ‘stronger’ or more overpowering. This is exactly why brands sometimes offer lighter versions of bestselling scents, for the summer. Some people prefer heavier more full-bodied, comforting, almost ‘cocooning’ scents in the winter – but again, this is individual. Personally, at The Perfume Society, we have richer fragrances that we love to rediscover at around the time when we reach for our opaque tights, our socks (and vests!), switching to airier perfumes for the warmers months. Just do what feels right for you, personally – in fact, follow your nose…
Are there some fragrances designed to be worn for daytime, or for evening…?
- Some do have the name ‘Night’, or ‘Nuit’ – which can be a clue that they’re intended for evening wear. But really, there are no hard and fast rules that have to be followed. This really is all about you. What you may want to do with a favourite fragrance, however, is choose a lighter concentration for daytime – an eau de parfum, or eau de toilette – and apply the perfume version, at night, which is basically a more intense version of the same scent.
Where should I apply perfume?
- Coco Chanel advised to apply perfume ‘where you want to be kissed’… What that means is: spray/dab on your ‘hot spots’, or pulse points – behind the ears, temples, wrists, nape of neck, back of the knees, in the crease of your elbows, between your breasts, the small of your back, navel area… The blood flows close to the surface in these zones, and heats the fragrance oils. But do be aware of one no-no: perfume industry ‘insiders’ never, ever rub their wrists together after applying fragrance, because it affects the oils. Spray, waft your wrists around – and be patient…!
How much should I wear?
- This is completely personal – but enough so you can smell it, and not too much that it overpowers the surrounding area. Your ‘scent circle’ should be your arms’ length and only when people come into your circle should they smell your perfume. If you’re unsure about whether you tend to ‘overdo’ your fragrance, ask a (good) friend. And take into account the occasion, too: you would certainly want to wear more for a night out than to the office
- Spritz from eight to 10 inches (20-25 cm) away from your body, and let it develop on the skin. DO NOT RUB! (See Hints & Tips, here.) We also very much like this advice from perfumer Olivier Cresp (responsible for the creation of Thierry Mugler Angel, Nina L’Eau, and more): ‘Do spritz fragrance into your hair rather than all over your body. This will help the scent to last longer compared to quickly rubbing off your skin. It also means that when moving your head, there’ll be a more natural whiff of fragrance.’ And the late, great Estée Lauder suggested to women that they spray perfume into the air, like a cloud, and walk through it…
Can I wear more than one perfume at a time?
- Yes! Did you know that in the Middle East, and many other cultures, people layer up to SEVEN (or more) fragrances at a time? Never be afraid to play with perfume. (The wonderful thing about fragrance is there is no right or wrong: if you like something, then it’s right.) As your sense of smell develops, you should become more adept at working out which fragrances will enhance each other.
Can perfume last all day?
- A Perfume can last four to six hours (or even longer), depending on the ingredients, the strength they are mixed into the base carrier (usually alcohol, but increasingly, oil-based) – and how dry your skin is. (Perfumes dissipate much faster on dry skins, or when the air is particularly dry.) From the moment you apply: the top notes, or ‘head’ notes last around 5-15 minutes before they disappear. The middle notes last from two to four hours, and make up most of the fragrance. The base notes(very occasionally referred to as ‘fond’) usually last from four to six hours or longer.
How long will the perfume last on me?
- That depends on the type of fragrance and on your unique odour footprint, as well as the oiliness or dryness of your skin; perfume likes to ‘cling’ to oil, and perfumes last longer on oilier-complexioned people. The strength of the fragrance is also a factor, and so are the notes: deep, smouldering base notes – the woods, resins, leather and tobacco etc. – last longer. So a fresh cologne will never last as long as an Ambrée.
- That might mean the natural oil of your skin – or it might mean, if you have dry skin, that you would do well to smooth on a body lotion or a rich cream, before applying your perfume, to give it something to ‘cling’ to.
How can I make my perfume last longer on my skin?
- If you moisturise your skin, this gives the oils something to ‘cling’ to, and will boost its staying power. So: if the ‘matching’ body products are available, it’s a beautiful way to ‘layer’ on your fragrance; body creams and body lotions, in particular, add emollients which hold perfume. If these range extensions aren’t available, go for an unscented body cream, butter or lotion which won’t clash with your chosen scent. Try spraying scent on clothing, linings of jackets, and in your hair (check the colour of the scent wont stain, first!) There are huge numbers of specially formulated scented hair mists to match fragrances now, as well. Because hair is porous, but doesn’t heat up like skin, the smell will last far longer.
Why can’t I smell my own perfume after several minutes?
- The nose becomes desensitised and quickly gets used to the notes of your perfume. You may not be able to smell it at all after 30-40 minutes, although your friends and colleagues may still be able to. Additionally, you may be naturally ‘anosmic’ (unable to smell well / at all) to certain ingredients, which others can smell. This often happens with large molecule aromas such as musks.
Are there other things which will affect the smell of my perfume?
- A. Diet has an impact: spicy foods can impact on the natural smell of your body, and meat-eaters are said to smell different to vegetarians. Environment also plays a part – both hot and cold climates affect the length of time a perfume lasts and its intensity. Age is another factor: the older you get, usually the drier the skin. (And for the years around menopause, hormonal shifts may mean a fragrance you have worn for years smells completely different.) Medication and certain health problems can also distort your perfume, on the skin. And as for smoking…? Smokers often report that their perfume has ‘changed’, when in fact, it’s the smoking impacting on their actual sense of smell…
Can perfume help change my mood?
- A Yes: many people use fragrance as a lift for their spirits, and there is even a name for the science behind this: ‘aromachology’. It’s been scientifically proven that different aromas can impact on mood and emotions – not just personally, but affecting those around you. Bergamot is a feel-good ingredient, peppermint makes you perkier and more alert, and grapefruit – believe it or not – makes others believe you’re younger than you are…! This is one reason so many people now have a ‘wardrobe’ of fragrances, rather than just one signature scent: a perfume to make them feel romantic, after a hard day staring at a computer screen; to give them a relaxed, weekend feel on Saturdays and Sundays – or simply something that they spritz on for work, in the morning, which makes them feel focused and professional, in the same way as a smart suit or a crisp white shirt…
My perfume seems different to how I remember it. Is my nose playing tricks…?
- A When an ingredient is classified as a potential allergen – by IFRA, the International Fragrance Association – two things may happen: it can be removed altogether, or its use limited by percentage, to minimise the risk of a susceptible perfume-wearer reacting.
- When this happens, perfumes may be ‘tweaked’ by the manufacturer. In some cases, a process called ‘fractionation’ – which allows ingredient manufacturers to remove the allergenic molecule of an fragrance note, while leaving the rest intact – can allow the continued use of that ingredient.
- Case in point: oak moss – invaluable in the creation of the chypre family of perfumes – has become restricted. Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house ‘nose’, explained to us that he now uses a ‘fractionated’ oak moss. ‘However, when you fractionate an ingredient, it leaves a “hole”: there is something missing,’ added Thierry. His solution to filling the sensory ‘hole’ in oak moss was to add a touch of – believe it or not – celery. It’s impossible to discern, to the rest of us – but it gave the rounded quality to that so-essential note that Thierry needed to return the classic Guerlain creation Mitsouko to its former, long-lasting glory.
- Occasionally, however, a perfume may change because the company which makes it is bought by another, and the formulation changed.
Can perfume go ‘off’?
- A. Fragrance certainly doesn’t last forever – but storing it correctly will help preserve the quality and lifespan of your perfume. The key is to keep it away from light and heat – so a bathroom, or a sunny dressing table, is NOT the place for your fragrance stash: higher temperatures affect the top notes of fragrance, making them musty, or more sour.
- If you have a dark cupboard to store perfume in, or a drawer, that’s perfect. (Ideally, keep in the box, or – if you’re using a drawer – wrap bottles in a scarf, or even plastic, unglamorous as that is. Be aware that perfume that’s never been opened and kept in a dark place can last more than 40 years…!).
- If you can’t manage that environment, store on a shelf that doesn’t get direct sunlight, in a not-too-hot room. Then once a bottle is open, you should get up to two years’ life out of it (we’ve had fragrances that last much longer…) Lighter, citrussy scents deteriorate faster than opulent florals…
- You may find you get a better life out of a spray bottle than a splash: if you touch the glass to your skin, and oil from your body gets into the bottle, that can affect the lifespan of your perfume, too: touch your skin to the rim of the bottle – and don’t use stoppers for application, as they are in contact with the contents. NB Dark glass preserves scent for longer than clear versions.
- But don’t hang onto any fragrance for too long…! Remember: perfume is to be worn, and enjoyed!
How do I know if it has gone off?
- A The colour might darken and the liquid may thicken and/or become cloudy – and you can be sure it will not smell like your normal scent. There’s really nothing you can do to redeem it at this point, alas.
Looking for more fragrant myths and facts, but this time related to scent’s journey through history to the present day? We have pages of perfumed stories for you to explore in our fascinating History of fragrance section! And if your nose is craving some factual books to dip in to (along with fragrantly inspired works of fiction), then do have a browse of our Fragrant Reads to fill your bookshelves…
By Suzy Nightingale
