J’s image of Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère with fig
Artisan perfumer David Falsberg’s approach to creating perfumes is reminiscent of how DJs produce edits and remixes, taking a classic style and reworking it to highlight the best elements and make it fit their own unique signature. He has released multiple variations of his classic RealOud, ranging from sophisticated top 10 hits to gritty underground tech house versions that purr with wild energy of the dance floor. The latest edit of Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère is infused with a delightful fruity fig, making it a perfect summer hit that can be spun whenever need to feel good. Each limited run is like discovering a rare white label release of a Dj-only edit, with some receiving a limited repress while others become elusive collector’s items, containing remixes only those in the know, know.
Perfumer David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes
Motor City Drum Ensemble Raw Cuts #3 from MCDE Recordings here.
Summer music for me is all about house music and Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère with Fig brings a burst of vibrant disco vocals blended seamlessly with a four-on-the-floor house beat. The refreshing mix of yuzu and bergamot shimmers, complemented by hints of sweetness from fig and raspberry, all tied together by clever aromatic rhythms. The cool, crisp notes of juniper and cardamom create a smooth, enticing melody with a sprinkle of nutmeg to enhance it like the EQ has been tweaked, while a hint of woody lavender adds a dreamy haze. The raspberry and fig juices in this fragrance give off an energetic, summery vibe that makes you feel like you’re on the verge of hitting the dance floor under the tropical lights and groove.
Analog Test Array modular synth via Wikipedia.
More of that pulpy rich fig aroma slinks forward in the mix bringing with it a bouquet of sexy florals. The aromatic toughness lets its guard down as soft petals unfurl, letting your inhibitions leave as you let loose on the dance floor, dancing to Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère’s intoxicating groove. Frangipani with linden blossom ups the tropical feel of the fruits adding more to the rhythmic feel of how this perfume moves, its making me think of Peggy Gou’s (It Goes Like) Nanana. Soft musky roses purr worn gentle ouds, it’s here you get to see the magic of the Thai Chanburi oud, it’s steamed stone fruit sweetness makes the flowers, especially the frangipani feel thick and voluptuous, like all the lights one dance floor are shining on you, candied by resins.
David cleverly takes this Thai oud and takes it apart, rearranging its elements like Daft Punk do with a sample, highlighting what’s needed to make this groove. It’s here that you feel elements of a classic fougère structure peak through too, a dry coumarin like woodiness that’s blurring more into the soft hay facets with saffron giving a gentle leather nuance. It’s these classic elements that let the funk groove in its sweet spot. A soft, ashy tobacco mossy leather jacket gives it that classic cool vibe, paying homage to the past with echoes of Aramis, a touch of Cabochard and a hint of Lagerfeld Classic, yet it exudes a 2024 feel-good hit for the summer with its bright, floral, fruity side that continues to groove. Let Us In · Kuniyuki & Soichi Terada & Sauce81 from Beyond Space And Time.
Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère with Fig artwork courtesy of Phoenicia Perfumes.
Quite like Andy Tauer has his Tauerade signature, David has his own unique style and production that for me comes out in the base. His expert use of woods, animalics and ouds gives you a beautiful easy feeling groove that’s simmering with complexity. It’s like he’s working with analogue synths and drum machines letting the circuits warm and simmer into a deep woody purring musk. Choya loban gives a subtle coolness to the warmer woods and oud, add a quiet, yet stark dark counterpoint making the sweeter elements shine. It’s cool against the warmer cosy haze of aromatic hay that still lingers and just dirtied up enough to add some realness and depth from the civet and musk fun lurking in the hay. Ghosts of the florals still haunt the edges of Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère, it’s like they’re lightly dripping with a gentle marine sweat. A soft sea saltiness plays off the figs sweetness feeling like a dance floor kiss that’s hard to forget, with a soft swirl of amber giving a wink of mystery with vetiver adding to this subtle musky smoky facet. This drum and bass groove has a classic feel yet Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère is playing its own take on classic feel pulling in elements of world cultures and making a perfume that takes you out on the dance floor and shows you its moves. It’s like a special Dj edit that spins for a whole side of a 12’; this is an underground hit that more people need to hear.
Notes: Bergamot, Sicily Petitgrain, Yuzu, Clary Sage, Juniper berry, cardamom, nutmeg, Pine terps, Raspberry natural, Lavender aldehyde, Geranium rose, Frangipani wax, Bulgarian red rose otto, Fig note, Linden blossom, Saffron, Hay, Chanburi Thai fruity oud, Laotian mineral oud, Aged cedar, Siam wood, Classic oakmoss – real deal, Choya raal, choya loban, frankincense sacra, wild opopanax, labdanum, aged patchouli, Peru balsam, tonka, vanilla, amber fossil, House-made tobacco tincture, Aged Indonesian vetiver, Aged civet, Qustari musk, Irish gray ambergris.
Phoenicia Perfumes fragrances can be purchased through their website.
Disclaimer: Bottle of Butch Fougere with Fig was kindly provided by Phoenicia Perfumes for review. Thoughts and nose as always, are my own.
-Senior Editor J Wearescentient, artist & olfactive writer
J’s image of Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougère with fig
Thanks to David’s generosity, we have a 30ml of Phoenicia Perfumes Butch Fougere with Fig for one registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what sparks your interest in J article and if you want to add what your favorite song to dance to. Draw closes 7/6/2024
PLEASE SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS AND BUY DIRECTLY FROM THEIR WEBSITE
Please read David Falsberg’s Profile in American Perfumery here as we celebrate in the USA Independence Day July 4, 2024. David is a fiercely independent perfumer
Enjoy J’s review of Atmos Tuberose here, RealOud Deep Musc was in my top 10 Best in Scents last year too, you can see it here
Ida’s Book Review of Coma Life so Beautiful here
Former Managing Editor Mark Behnke’s review of Skin Graft 2013
Ida’s Review of Raspberry M’Oud here
Rachel Watson’s review of RealOud here
You can purchase Coma Life So Beautiful on the Olfactory Art Keller here
Read more about David’s collaboration on the Olfactory Art Keller site here
David Falsberg inspired Hez Binkowitz of Hez Parfums to become a perfumer. Read more here
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