DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto, Dutchess Meadow Heirloom Elixir no. 29, LOVE, Lemongrass, and Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz collage by Michelyn
Im wunderschönen Monat Mai
Als alle Knospen sprangen,
Da ist in meinem Herzen
Die Liebe aufgegangen.
In the wondrously beautiful month of May
When all the buds burst into bloom
Love began to burgeon in my heart. ~ Heinrich Heine, poet
Self Portrait of Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz by Dawn© 1990
We are in the midst of the blooming month of May; it seems that the very earth itself is fragrant. It makes the soul somewhat restless; we seek our hearts’ desire. There awakens a longing for fragrances which mirror this fascination with natural loveliness – and few can resist the myriad offerings which award-winning artisan perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz provides. For perfume aficionado neophytes (as well as seasoned scent lovers) her numerous options are daunting – and new ones arrive upon the scene with prodigious regularity. Try as I may, I find it challenging to keep abreast myself – so I’ve chosen three more recent fragrances which I thought you might like to consider. Each has its individual charm and no two are alike, so there’s something here for everyone. Grappa e Bergamotto is one of the new quartet of perfumes which explore the ever-present note of bergamot within audacious aromatic settings; LOVE, Lemongrass is unadulterated bottled sunshine with a subtle animalic twist; and Heirloom Elixir no. 29 Dutchess Meadows invites you to experience the landscape of Dawn’s childhood – horses and all. I’ve already purchased 2 out of the three because I love them to the point where I don’t want to go without – and these days I don’t buy anything unless I adore it.
DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto {Les Fauves de Bergamotes} collage by Michelyn with Le bonheur de vivre Matisse background
The brand-new quartet of fragrances entitled Les Fauves des Bergamotes (this translates to the Beasts of Bergamot!) is an inspired grouping which demonstrates how a ubiquitous citrus may be employed in an adventurous manner. DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto is actually a very modern sparkling green chypre. Dawn has somehow managed to evoke the feisty Italian eau de vie which is created by distilling the remains of winemaking (skins, pulp, seeds and stems): there is a dry, potent wine-and-olive tone which I find bewitching, existing in tandem with the greenest grape. It’s aromatic alchemy – the discreet presence of ozone (ethereal) and damp stone, exquisite yet inobtrusive floral accompaniment anchored by fine aged patchouli (not headshoppy), oakmoss, musk – and mystery. My husband wanted to drink it because he said that it “smelt yummy” – and he didn’t know what grappa is – so there you have it. I may have to spring for some…
DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto notes: aldehydes, bergamot,Tahitian lime, grappa liquor accord, green grape accord, ozone accord, musk rose, star jasmine, jasmine grandiflorum, Tunisian neroli, orris concrete, green oakmoss, East Indian patchouli, musk, wet stone accord
DSH Perfumes Love, Lemongrass Art by Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz
DSH Perfumes LOVE, Lemongrass (all botanical): It only took one sniff – I swear. There’s a very good chance that you’ll feel the same way I did: fresh, floral, tangy, verdant, honeyed, woody. I am plowing through my flacon, and it isn’t even close to summer yet. LOVE, Lemongrass is a true tonic for the flagging spirit, a celebratory perfume which is suited to all occasions; it is sophisticated enough to entrance, never stuffy or self-conscious, and a wearable work of art. I know that folks may see litsea cubeba or lemongrass listed, and think: “bug spray” – but nothing could be farther from reality. Its masterful amalgam of varied citrus tones, spicy galangal, and exotic blooms is a joy, complemented by unctuous acacia honey and hay absolute. LOVE, Lemongrass’ base is an elegant one in which French beeswax, ambrette, oakmoss, vetiver attar, fine frankincense, a mere kiss of shadowy labdanum, and the rich balsamic proclivity of Siam (pemou) wood commingle with a touch of benzoin. So smooth; I can’t decide whether I want to drink it or bathe in it.
DSH Perfumes LOVE, Lemongrass notes: lemongrass, may chang/litsea cubeba, Meyer lemon, Tahitian lime, bergamot, galangal, Tunisian neroli, Spanish orange flower absolute, jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, Bulgarian rose, aglaia flower, ylang-ylang, acacia honey absolute, hay absolute, ruh khus (vetiver attar), French beeswax, Australian sandalwood, green oakmoss, frankincense co2 absolute, musk, ambrette, labdanum, Siam benzoin, Siam wood
DSH Perfumes Dutchess Meadows courtesy of the perfumer
DSH Perfumes Dutchess Meadows {a new mown hay perfume; Heirloom Elixir no.29}: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz grew up in Dutchess County in upstate New York, and Dutchess Meadows is an homage to the bucolic charms of its farmlands in springtime. I smile to myself when she notes that the odors associated with cow and horse manure “aren’t for everyone” – because I’ve always enjoyed them immensely – but they aren’t the be-all and end-all of Dutchess Meadows’ attributes This choice heirloom elixir embraces the meadow in its entirety, and it is picture-perfect. Dawn gives us the honey provided by swarms of obliging bees; herb, grass, clover, violet leaf, and hay partnered with the coumarinic comeliness of liatrix (aka deertongue, it is simply wonderful in fougères and ambery perfumes). Lavender appears, then yields to rose, jasmine and neroli for an ebulliently floral initial fanfare. It’s exhilarating. THEN come the grazing pastures and barn/stable nuances – without which this scene would lack authenticity. Labdanum has a stronger presence here (I love labdanum with vetiver), and the inclusion of oud Crassna (an aged Cambodian oud which is renowned for its evocation of the barnyard) is a real coup. Castoreum has an animalic visage as well; there is a certain sweetness to it which is appealing; sandalwood soothes and smooths. Dutchess Meadows’ drydown is really lovely, hours into the scent: dulcetly leathery and slightly sweet. What commenced as brilliantly floral and animalic has become a pastoral lullaby.
Dutchess Meadows notes: bergamot, clary sage, clover leaf, green clover blossoms, green grass accord, acacia honey absolute, violet leaf absolute, French lavender, Bulgarian rose absolute, grandiflorum jasmine, Tunisian neroli, coumarin, hay absolute, liatrix, labdanum, leather, horse accord, castoreum, oud Crassna, Australian sandalwood, Brazilian vetiver
Samples provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
DSH Perfume 5 ml sample spray DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto, LOVE, Lemongrass, and Dutchess Meadow (Heirloom Elixir no.29) courtesy of the perfumer
Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, we are able to offer THREE 5 ml sample sprays of each for one registered reader, (you must register here) in the CONUS. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what appeals to you about Ida’s reviews of: DSH Perfumes Grappa e Bergamotto, LOVE, Lemongrass, and/or Dutchess Meadows. Is there one you are really excited to try? What is your favorite DSH Perfume? Giveaway closes 5/24/2023
Note: DSH Perfumes ships to the EU and UK (and elsewhere) through the Etsy shop here
PLEASE SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS AND BUY SAMPLES OR BOTTLES. IF YOU HAVE WANTED TO TRY DSH PERFUMES YOU CAN PURCHASE THEM HERE
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @dshperfumes @idameister
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed, or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
